Anonim

Občutek revolucije igra osrednjo vlogo v malo verjetno obrtnem pivskem prizorišču, ki trenutno uspeva v osrčju Bližnjega vzhoda. Neustrašni pivoljubni Yorkshireman Nick Appleyard se je odpravil iskati najboljši delček, ki bi ga lahko našel na obeh straneh izraelske varnostne ovire.

Pošteno je reči, da Sveta dežela ni dobila slovesa po zanimivem pivu: palestinski porter in izraelski IPA zveni bolj kot moderno orožje kot osvežujoče pijače. To je razumljivo, saj je bilo generacijam edino pivo, ki ste ga lahko spili v centru Jeruzalema ali Tel Aviva, v obliki uvoženega, masovno proizvedenega pintra lagerja. Zahodni diplomati in vojni poročevalci so morali več desetletij kuhati pivo v svoji kopalni kadi, če so želeli, da bi lahko karkoli okusili. To pa se zdaj spreminja.

Ob prihodu na letališče Ben Gurion v Tel Avivu sem se soočil z možnostjo, da bi se odpeljal do Jeruzalema. To je bil Šabat. Za tiste, ki niste seznanjeni z zapletenost judovske vere (kot sem bil jaz), je to dan počitka in celotna država se v petek zaustavi za 24 ur, začenši ob sončnem zahodu. To pomeni, da ni javnega prevoza. Nehote sem prišel v državo po mraku in železniška postaja je imela jezivo podobnost apokalipse.

Vzorčenje obrtnih piv v Sveti deželi: Mus Alquesa, Dome of the Rock, Jeruzalem, Izrael.

Na srečo mi je uspelo najti skupni taksi - ali šerut -, ki se je peljal proti Jeruzalemu, in se je v 40 minutah spustil na vhodu Jaffa Gate v Staro mesto. Izrael je majhna država - čez le eno uro smo se vozili čez njega.

Kljub temu, da sem le streljaj od kupole skale, zahodne stene in cerkve svetega groba, sem imel v mislih druge stvari in se odpravil poiskati lokalno pivo.

V Jeruzalemu je veliko barov, ki niso kosherski, kjer posvetna skupnost ignorira Šabat in uživa v petkovem večeru kot kateri koli drug po zahodnem svetu. Bar sem skočil po živahni ulici Ben Sira, preden sem se nastanil v kuhinji in baru Tel Aviv. Tu sem prvič okusil vznemirljivo craft pivo na Bližnjem vzhodu. To je bila steklenica Shapiro Pale Ale, kuhana v bližnjem Beit Shemeshu, ki je žarela svetlo nejasno oranžno in okusila borovo sadje. Moja izkušnja s pitjem Goldstara (izraelska različica brezpogojnega lagerja) je bila v zadnjem delu mojega uma. Bil sem zelo hvaležen.

Naslednji dan sem stal na grobu Oscarja Schindlerja, obiskal Temple Mount in nešteto drugih svetih krajev, preden sem se povzpel na Davidov stolp. Po napornih osemurnem ogledu znamenitosti v hudi vročini sem se odpravil v zelo razgibano restavracijo Chakra, da bi si privoščil nekaj potrebnega prehranjevanja. To je bilo po priporočilu slavnega kuharja Yotama Ottolenghija, zato so bila pričakovanja velika.

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V meniju so bile ponujene dekonstruirane različice klasične vozovnice za Bližnji vzhod in nisem bil razočaran. Hrana je bila okusna in postrežba zgledna, a razstavo je ukradla zelo lastna Jeruzalemska mikro pivovarna Herzl. Čakra uporablja samo najsvetlejše lokalne sestavine in to sega tudi do piva. V 7% ABV je bil v Herzlovem IPA v ameriškem stilu poln hmelja citrusov in nabito velik udarec.

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Vrnitev nazaj v hotel sem se peljal mimo hotela King David, nekdanjega vojaškega in upravnega štaba med britansko vladavino Palestine pred približno 70 leti. Stavbo so pred razglasitvijo države Izrael uničili judovski paravojaši. Odtlej so ga vrnili v nekdanjo slavo in je zdaj ljubica bogatih turistov, ki jih obiskujejo dostojanstveniki in gospodarstveniki. V vsaki ulici v Jeruzalemu je resničen občutek za zgodovino in konflikte in ljudi, ki bi jih radi povedali, ne manjka.

Naslednje jutro sem se z avtobusom peljal skozi eno od zloglasnih kontrolnih točk Izraela na Zahodni breg. Ko sem si zamislil to neozemljeno ozemlje, so mi najprej prišlo na misel militanti, vojaki in protesti. In res je; zasedba je v polnem razmahu. Vendar ni občutka neposredne nevarnosti - na obeh straneh ovire. Kljub temu, kar vam lahko povedo naslovi.

Ramallah trenutno cveti. Njena obzorja spominja na londonsko - zasuto z žerjavi, ko oblasti obnovijo mesto, ki še vedno nosi brazgotine nedavnih vojn. Na večini vogalov lahko najdemo živahne ulične trge, prodajalci pa prodajajo vrsto svežih kruhov, prevelikih šopkov zelišč in lončkov maslene koruze. Avtomobilski rogovi in ​​prometne zastoje zagotavljajo nenehno ozadje.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

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“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

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All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

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“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

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“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.

The previous night somebody had told me about a Palestinian microbrewery in the village of Taybeh. So I took a sherut from the city's bullet-pocked bus station in the direction of the brewery. Don't be put off by this unlikely-looking transport hub, which resembles a dingy multi-story car park. The locals are more than happy to direct you towards the correct vehicle and journeys cost less than £3. I was dropped off right outside the brewery. Founded by a Christian family in 1994 following the signing of the Oslo Accords peace treaty, it reflects an age when people were optimistic about the future of this region. According to its founder, Nadim Khoury, the brewery was set up with the blessing of the late Palestinian leader, Yasser Arafat, who agreed that if the people were to have their own country then they must have their own beer. Ironically, Tony Blair now drops in for a pint when he visits the region as part of his role as envoy to the Middle East.

IMG_0340

“Brewing in Palestine is unlike brewing anywhere else in the world,” Nadim concedes. “Moving our beer through the checkpoints causes problems, as does importing our ingredients through Israeli ports where we have to pay an agent to act as a go-between. We now have to synchronise our brew days with when water is available.” Taybeh was the first microbrewery in the Middle East and now produces more than one million pints of beer a year, as well as holding an annual beer festival in October. It brews five beers using traditional German techniques. The dark beer, or porter, was my favourite by a long shot. The brewery's backdrop is as phenomenal as its short history. It is surrounded by olive groves and mountains in what is otherwise a sleepy village. This makes it well worth navigating military checkpoints and a bumpy taxi ride to pay a visit.

IMG_0533

The next day I found myself in a very different setting at Herzl Brewery back in the industrial suburbs of Jerusalem. Here I met Maor Helfman and Itai Gutman who told me of their own very different struggle. Israel's smallest and Jerusalem's only brewery, Herzl opened in 2012 – the year tax on beer doubled. Maor and Itai's distaste for the finance minister who introduced the tariff is evident as he stares back at me from a dartboard hanging on the wall. “How can you take money from the people? They are killing a growing industry,” Maor stresses. “We must unite the breweries to fight them.” Both keen homebrewers, they took separate internships at the BrewDog brewery in Scotland before ever meeting. This background is evident in their outlandish recipes involving ingredients such as dandelion, grit and honey. Herzl currently produces around 7, 000 bottles a month and there are ambitions to export. Itai urged me to visit the Beer Market in Jaffa before I left the country. This boutique-bottle-shop-cum-bar sits beside the Mediterranean Sea in a regenerated port, which plays host to dozens of food stalls. It was a great shout and I had the fortune to taste several more local beers before heading off to the airport.

IMG_0079

All in all, the trip had been a revelation. From a defiant pair of young Israelis operating out of mankind's most hotly-contested city to a Christian family making beer in a tiny Palestinian village under military occupation, a craft beer revolution is spreading right across the Middle East. To my great surprise both the Palestinian Porter and Israeli IPA actually existed … and they tasted pretty good too. Explore the world using our travel roulette game. Books hostels for your trip, and don't forget to purchase travel insurance before you go.